Chain link tops out around $30 per linear foot installed, ornamental aluminum runs as high as $75, and removing an old fence first adds another $3 to $10 per foot. A new fence is one of the few home projects where the price swings almost entirely on two decisions: what material you pick and how many linear feet you need to cover. Get a quote before you know those two numbers and you’re just guessing. Here’s how the real math works, broken down by material, so you can budget accurately before contractors start bidding.
What Fence Installation Actually Involves
A typical installation includes marking your property line (a survey or at least a call to 811 for utility locates), setting posts in concrete footings every 6-8 feet, attaching rails or panels between posts, hanging at least one gate, and hauling away any old fencing. Removal of an existing fence typically adds $3 to $10 per linear foot on top of new installation costs, since it involves pulling posts out of concrete rather than just cutting panels down.
Most residential fence jobs run somewhere between 100 and 250 linear feet, depending on lot size and whether you’re fencing the full perimeter or just a backyard.
Cost Breakdown by Material
These are installed costs — material plus labor — per linear foot, and they are national estimates rather than quotes. Actual bids in your area can run higher or lower depending on local labor rates and site conditions.
| Material | Installed Cost per Linear Foot | Typical Lifespan |
|---|---|---|
| Chain link | $15–$30 | 15–20 years |
| Pressure-treated wood | $20–$35 | 10–15 years (with maintenance) |
| Cedar privacy wood | $30–$45 | 15–25 years |
| Vinyl/PVC | $30–$60 | 20–30 years |
| Aluminum/steel ornamental | $35–$75 | 20+ years |
On top of the per-foot rate, budget $200 to $600 per gate (more for wide double-drive gates), and $50 to $200 for a permit in municipalities that require one — many don’t for fences under 6 feet, but corner lots and HOA communities often have their own rules on top of city permitting.
What Drives the Price Up or Down
Height matters more than most people expect — a 6-foot privacy fence uses roughly 50% more material than a 4-foot fence and takes longer to install, so the per-foot rate climbs with height, not just the total footage. Labor typically makes up 30% to 50% of the total bid, and that share is highest in urban areas: crews in cities commonly charge $30 to $50 per linear foot for labor alone, versus $20 to $35 in rural areas, mainly reflecting local wage rates and site access.
Terrain is the other big swing factor. A flat, obstruction-free yard is the cheapest scenario. Slopes, tree roots, rocky soil, or a fence line that has to step around existing structures all add time and often require racked (stepped or raked) panels, which cost more to fabricate and install than standard flat panels. Removing a dead tree stump or old concrete footings from a prior fence can add a few hundred dollars on its own.
Gate count and width also move the total more than people budget for. A single walk gate is a minor add; a double-wide drive gate rated for vehicle traffic can cost as much as 10-15 linear feet of fence by itself once you include the extra hardware and reinforced posts.
Realistic Total Cost
For a typical 150-linear-foot backyard fence with one gate, expect to pay:
- Chain link: $2,450–$5,100
- Pressure-treated wood: $3,200–$5,850
- Cedar privacy: $4,700–$7,350
- Vinyl: $4,700–$9,600
- Aluminum or steel ornamental: $5,450–$11,850
These ranges assume a straightforward, flat install with no old-fence removal. Add 15-25% if the old fence needs to come out first, the yard has a significant slope, or you’re in a high-labor-cost metro area.
Try It: Estimate Your Fence Cost
Use the calculator below to get a rough estimate based on your linear footage and material choice. This is a planning estimate only — get at least three local quotes before budgeting a final number.
Fence Cost Calculator
Estimate only. Excludes old-fence removal, permits, and unusual site conditions.
Practical Tips Before You Sign a Contract
Get at least three written quotes, and make sure each one specifies post depth, concrete vs. gravel footings, and material grade (e.g., which cedar grade, what gauge of chain link mesh) — “wood fence” and “chain link fence” quotes can vary widely in what’s actually included. Confirm your property line with a survey or plat map before installation; a fence built a foot over the line is a common and expensive dispute to unwind later. If you’re in an HOA, check the covenants for height and material restrictions before you fall in love with a design. Finally, fall and winter are typically the slowest season for fence installers in most regions, and some will shave 10-15% off a quote to fill their schedule — it’s worth asking.
Costs above are national estimates, not quotes, and will vary by region, lot conditions, and contractor — here’s how we arrive at a range. Always collect multiple local quotes before budgeting a final number.
